April 14, 2016 – Los Angeles to Papeete, Tahiti in French Polynesia
By 1 PM we returned to LAX for check-in with Air Tahiti Nui within TBIT (Tom Bradley International Terminal). We were the only passengers in line …that is until we moved up the escalators and rounded the corner toward security, where hundreds of people were waiting in line. The only people not waiting in line – first class or business class – who breezed by in an express lane. Two hours later we passed the security screens and hurried to locate Starbucks and lunch. Although small, the “Ink Sack” made a great sandwich and “The Larder”, which offers pricey organic food had at least 1 gluten free salad for $15 (USD).
Boarding Air Tahiti Nui exceeded our expectations. From American Airline where everything is an additional charge to Air Tahiti where economy seats received first class treatment with complimentary pillows, ear buds, ear plugs, sleep masks, blankets, meals, beverages (even alcoholic), and personal seat back entertainment. The flight was actually enjoyable with very little turbulence (says the girl terrified of flying)… and a few Gins helped with what little turbulence there was!
Arriving in Papeete, Tahiti at 8:30 PM local time (6 hours behind Toronto), we exited onto the tarmac into light rain and moved quickly through customs and baggage claim. Not having a shuttle arranged, we moved to the front of the taxi line up for a cab to Le Meridien in Fa’aa, Tahiti. Fifteen minutes and 3900XPF later, we checked in at Le Meridien. In case you’re unfamiliar, 1 USD = 100XPF for quick conversion purposes. Yes, that’s right: $39 (USD) 15 minutes taxi ride = expensive! Had the flight arrived before 8 PM, the same ride would have been 2500XPF. Taxi pricing is regulated and posted at the airport. Speaking French is an absolute asset here (we tried our best, but clearly not our strongest asset).
Here’s another secret, so you do not ever have to fumble around in the dark like we did. At Le Meridien, you must insert your room access card into the slot beside the light switches to turn on the electricity. In the darkness, we missed this key step and had the pleasure of acquiring a few bruises as we became well acquainted with the room in the pitch black… at least until we found the phone to call the Front Desk for help. The room was more beautiful than it had felt! The last thing we remember is landing on a soft bed…
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April 15, 2016 – Faa’a, Tahiti
At 5 AM we were awake! Correction – Krissy was awake, which meant Andrew had to be awake. It would have been 11 AM in Toronto. By 6 AM we had daylight and the views were mesmerizing. We stole pictures of the large sandy bottom pool and over water bungalows in complete solitude. It was so tranquil…
Unwilling to pay $40/person (USD) for the buffet breakfast, we ventured via Hotel Shuttle (3200XPF roundtrip) back to Papeete to the Market for breakfast at Le Retro. Sophie, the shuttle driver, was both beautiful and knowledgable. Sophie moved seamlessly between her native tongues (French and Tahitian) and second languages English and Spanish. After our affordable breakfast, we walked the market enjoying the Tahitian people, artistic graffiti, and shops with fabrics, pearls, and fresh fruits and vegetables (everything is tiny – tiny bananas, tiny lettuce… it’s all so small). The GoPro store and a restaurant called Thai Villa (reservation only) both caught our eye and the Bora Bora Lounge across from the Harbour made the perfect venue for a cold Hinona beer.
Tahiti feels so welcoming and safe. We felt inspired to explore (and find more beer), so we left the resort and walked a few steps to the nearby grocery store to purchase snacks, water, and beer! With the sun overhead and clouds clearing it was hot, as mentioned in Couples Retreat “Bring shorts, you’re going to sweat your bag off” (philosophically speaking of course). The warm waters of both the ocean and pool made the heat more manageable until the sun set in the early evening and temperatures dipped comfortably. Typically, Le Meridien has a Polynesian Show and Seafood Buffet every Friday night, but not this night – it was the Mister Tahiti male model competition. Given that our options were limited, we conceded to dinner on the resort at Le Carre with meals ranging from $25-125 (USD). Apparently lobster was out of season at this oceanside restaurant, so the rack of lamb and vegetable curry with rice were selected. The sauces that accompanied the meals were exceptional, but overall just an okay experience.
April 16, 2016 – Papeete, Tahiti – Embark Paul Gauguin Cruise Ship
Another early start to the day, this time prompted by an alarm and the excitement of knowing Jenn (Krissy’s sister) was arriving! We sat in the lobby using the free WiFi and finally by 7 AM Jenn arrived via taxi – Bonjour!
Now knowing the amenities near the resort, Le Nemo restaurant was a must try and did not disappoint. Reasonable prices (800XPF/person) for omelettes and for those with a gluten-full (not free) diet, some of the best French baguette Andrew has ever tasted.
The early afternoon was spent by the pool with the ocean visible in the background. Unbelievably picturesque. The almonds, cheese, yogurt, and watermelon we’d bought at the grocery store made for the perfect gluten free picnic lunch at the pool – we just had to compete with the unusually high winds and blowing sand. After escaping the wind, we realized we wanted to bring disinfectant wipes on the cruise (a tip we heard about to prevent illness onboard cruise ships – in addition to hand hygiene). The girls ran to the grocery store while the taxi was en route for pick up. When running back to the resort, Krissy and Jenn heard brief horn honking from a passing taxi… another women waved hello to the cab… and only later when returning to the resort to find Andrew and the bags gone, did the girls realize they had been abandoned by that honking taxi. Several minutes later, the taxi returned and Andrew, who’s French is almost non-existent, stepped out saying “I don’t think he speaks English – I pointed you out to the taxi driver, but he just laughed, honked, and kept driving” …the taxi driver must have eventually caught on to Andrew’s charades and turned around.
By 3 PM we were boarding the immaculate M/S Paul Gauguin in the Port of Papeete after a friendly welcome and brief health questionnaire. The reception process was efficient and enjoyable. We couldn’t help but laugh as the photographer asked if Andrew would like a picture with his 2 wives… we took the picture, but made sure to clarify the true dynamic. The cruise package through Vacations To Go included a free 3rd guest (only $245 in port charges/taxes), making Jenn – my sister and best friend, not Andrew’s 2nd wife – the perfect person to bring along. We drank champagne and listened to traditional ukulele music while briefly waiting in Le Grand Salon (theatre) for a digital photo and room access card, then received a personal escort to our stateroom (No. 425) where our luggage was already waiting.
The stateroom was updated, clean, and cozy – especially for three people! Mirrors were abundant – covering half the walls, but not the ceiling. The oversized chair pulled out into Jenn’s single bed. The room had tons of storage space and everything had a place to be neatly tucked away. The nicest feature – Helen – the stateroom attendant who kept the space perfectly clean and left chocolates on the pillows and turned down the beds each evening. Shh… the girls don’t eat chocolate, so we collected the 3 per night and offered them to the children we met on the islands. It was so cute to see the children’s wide eyes and then their chocolate smeared faces!
The next order of business aboard the M/S Paul Gauguin – a self-guided tour of the ship to check out the amenities! The staff laughed as we tried to identify bow (front), aft (back or stern), port (left), and starboard (right) of the decks. Left felt right and back felt front on decks without windows for reference. We eventually conceded and moved to the pool deck (level 8) for drinks and the harbour view! It was our first glimpse of the impeccable service we would receive throughout the cruise as Chris, the pool bar attendant, delivered the first of several Pina Coladas for the ladies and scotch (Glen Livet) for Andrew. Once slightly tipsy, it was time for the mandatory emergency safety briefing at Muster Station D. We had to sign in with stateroom number and stand in a straight line waiting for the other passengers to arrive. We were first to arrive, so we spent almost an hour waiting in line, but it was fun because we had the chance to meet other passengers!
After acing our emergency drill, we enjoyed our first dinner at 1 of 3 restaurants on board: L’Etoile (level 5) – offering dinner only with no reservations required. It was the perfect way to end the evening with impressive food, on point (and amusing) servers like Juben, Ariel, Angelo, and Christian. Christian is the server specializing in dietary restrictions and requirements who would find us each meal moving forward to ensure our every request was met (with the approval of Chef Stefan Berndt). Being gluten free (as well as caffeine and chocolate free) has never been easier or with more tempting options than during our 14 nights aboard the Paul Gauguin.
That night, as we drifted into sleep deprived food induced comas, we knew we were embarking on an unforgettable journey! I fell asleep to the thought of both breakfast (I am always thinking of my next meal) and the vision of being peacefully rocked, like the gentle sway of a hammock, as the ship departed toward the Tuamotu Islands late that evening…
Throughout the night, we drifted in and out of sleep, waking frequently to that stomach dropping sensation as the ship rocked up and down and side to side. Was this normal? It felt like permanent turbulence, but on the ocean… what had we signed up for? Where was the gentle swaying? Who ordered the roller coaster ride in the middle of the night? We kept glancing at each other over the dim light of the cell phone as time seemed to stand still. Occasionally, we’d glance over at Jenn in her single cot sound asleep unaware of the ship’s movement or her panicked roommates. We lay quietly in bed, both silently hoping for the morning to come and for the boat to still be afloat. I rehearsed the emergency drill in my mind (just in case… ha ha ha?)
April 17, 2016 – At Sea 1 – En Route to Fakarava, Tuamotu Islands
By 7 AM with overcast skies we could see the rough ocean and steep waves that had kept us awake most of the night. Wanting distraction (and proof everything was okay) we climbed the stairs to deck 8 for breakfast. As soon as we opened the door and stepped out onto the deck, we were hit by strong wind. We clumsily pushed forward tackling both the rocking ship and the wind to reach Le Grill (restaurant serving all meals with dinner requiring reservations). We were 3 of only a few passengers who had braved the weather. Apparently the strong winds happen occasionally, but were mostly an exception to the normal cruising climate of French Polynesia in April. Randy seated us and we recognized several servers from the previous night in L’Etoile. The pool (small, but adequate) had waves of its own and water splashed out as if the pool was trying to empty itself. Everyone looked a little green and plain toast (even gluten free) and ginger ale seemed to be popular that morning.
The majority of the day was spent feeling a bit nauseous, until Gravol (versus cocktails) were ingested. After napping, we ordered from room service and discovered the best gluten free roast beef and turkey club sandwiches come from that 24 hour menu! Andrew loved the steak sandwich and bourbon pecan pie from the same menu.
Reviewing the daily itinerary (delivered nightly with turn down service), we planned our afternoon. Moonfish carving by the pool with Chef Stefan, then drinks on the Sun Deck (level 9) as we arrived in Fakarava by 5pm excited by the views and the thought of being anchored safely inside the calm atoll (ring of coral that used to surround an island) for the night. For many passengers, the itinerary prompted the start of the search for the elusive “green flash” – a brilliant green light phenomenon appearing at sunset just as the upper edge of the sun vanishes below the horizon. It’s elusive because it requires an unobstructed westward view without clouds, haze, or fog for visualization. We would attempt to catch the “green flash” during every sunset for the remainder of the cruise…
Dinner was at La Veranda (level 6), which did require reservations. La Veranda is a French inspired restaurant with a range of rich palate pleasing platings and menu that changes once half way through the cruise. While dining, we were spoiled by Juan and Jaypee’s exceptional service and Christian would present the following day’s menu for our gluten free selections to ensure we were never disappointed. Planning ahead meant we had the opportunity to enjoy tastings like coconut shrimp, calamari fritti, fettuccine alfredo, donuts, and lemon tarts.
A highlight of the evening was the entertainment – Ia Orana Tahiti, a performance by Les Gauguins and Gauguines (entertainers) with tahitian song and dance, which is an important emblem of the rebirth of Tahitian culture in French Polynesia.
April 18, 2016 – Fakarava – Tuamotu Island
Fakarava is the second largest atoll after Rangiroa, French Polynesia. It is considered a biosphere reserve protected by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization), making it an incredible dive site. It appears like a ring of island (think donut) with crystal clear calm turquoise blue waters in the middle. We grabbed our snorkel gear and took the tender over to land to walk along the quiet picturesque street past small white (some pink) sand beaches and scattered shops, one restaurant, and the resort with a rescued sea turtle at the end of the road. After Jenn cracked into her coconut, we walked into the warm waters and snorkelled in shallow water near several 5-6 foot nurse sharks. It was also here that Andrew lost his wedding ring in the water (he promises it was unintentionally). We had to retrace our snorkel route in what seemed like an impossible search and rescue attempt. But… we had Jenn! We heard Jenn yelling “I found it” as she popped up out of the water with arm raised holding the ring between her fingers! Too bad Jenn didn’t have the same luck as she later tried to swim in the rescued sea turtle enclosure as she was promptly, but politely kicked out. Moving forward, wedding rings would be secured in the stateroom safe before snorkelling excursions to avoid salt water from allowing them to escape fingers.
That evening, we caught the tail end of the organized ship wide block party – wine served in the hallways of each deck allowing an opportunity to meet adjacent neighbours. We loved it! It was the perfect ice breaker to interact with interesting people from Australia, Europe, Canada, and the United States. The slightly older crowd seemed to be warming up to the idea of a few younger people being on board. We embraced the opportunity and were blown away by the kindness and caliber of people we were travelling with – our cruise family! …as the evening disappeared we returned to L’Etoile for a relaxed dinner with the ship sailing in calmer waters.
April 19, 2016 – At Sea 2 – En Route to Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands
Today’s sea day was one that anyone would love. Perfect weather for cruising – calm water and blue sky and the heat of the sun was eased by a gentle breeze. It was a day for tanning near the pool and relaxing with new friends. We caught part of an enrichment lecture by Mark Eddowes on Tapa (a Pacific cloth made from the bark of Malberry, Banyon, or Breadfruit trees that is decorated with geometric patterns of significance). We met Les Gauguines to make Umuhei (aromatic bouquets of herbs, roots, pineapple, and cinnamon with aphrodisiac properties). They smelt like pretty potpourri, but to Andrew they stunk. Clearly Andrew would not be interested in the females who would wear these to find mates. Jenn and I hung the Umuhei on the Tiki sculpture in the stateroom, punishing Andrew’s nostrils for days!
The quiet peaceful day at sea was disturbed by Jenn and I as we ran around the pool deck collecting men to bring to La Palette (crafts and dance by day; disco by night) to participate in the Haka (ceremonial and/or pre-war dance) with the 2 male Le Gauguins Tapuarii and Teani. It was impossible not to laugh as the men tried to grunt syllables and dance masculinely… clearly these men do not play rugby for the New Zealand All Blacks.
April 20, 2016 – Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands
Ka oha (hello) to the Marquesas Islands! Clocks advanced 30 minutes overnight. Is this the only place on Earth with a time change that is not at least a 1 hour interval? Fatu Hiva “garden of eden” is a breathtaking untamed island; southern most of all the Marquesas and renowned for the tapa cloth where plant fibres are transformed into fabric by women. An island with a small population; cut off from the world except for the telephone and television. Oh… and be prepared – it is extremely HOT and humid here!
Transferring via tender to the pier, we walked the 15 minutes to the Handicraft Centre (Artisan Market) in Omoa Village where we observed Tapa (paper paintings) and purchased a Pareo for $10-15USD (1500 XPF; 1:100 exchange ratio) after capturing a personal Pareo tying lesson and makeover by Christopher on the Go pro. If you’re heading to French Polynesia, it is better to bring XPF versus USD as many of the smaller islands are limited in their ability to convert USD into the local XPF currency, rendering USD useless to them. Luckily, the ship provides this service with great exchange rates and without fees.
Before we left the market, we saw a young girl getting a tattoo. From what we saw, it did not look sterile, but we hoped that an island further removed from the world may have fewer blood borne illnesses being shared via needle. We did not subject ourselves to a tattoo, but did indulge in the history of tattoos in the region. In tahitian, tatau translates to “hitting repeatedly” and in mythology this art was given to humans by Tahitian gods to express identity and social status and protect from evil spirits and denote rights of passage. The tiki, turtle, lizard, and stingray are popular symbols. It was from the Marquesas Islands that tattoos were introduced to Europe, after being brought back by Captain James Cook a long time ago. At some point, the influence of Christianity forbid tattoos, but in the 1980s tattoos made a resurgence. Today, the majority of the population is Catholic and the minority being Protestant.
Following the only “main” road we found, we walked slowly in the blazing heat taking in the island’s beauty. It was incredible to see the lush forests and coconuts drying in the sun on platforms. We met fellow passengers Tim and Wayne, who kindly pointed out breadfruit trees and described the Indonesian attempt (and battles) to take shoots of the Breadfruit trees back to Indonesia to grow and feed to slaves, which they eventually succeeded in doing, but amusingly, after all the years and battles before success, the slaves revolted and refused to eat it! Apparently Tim had attended a few enrichment lectures that we had missed. We loved learning as we walked along the road – a perfect distraction from our heat derived dehydrated state.
Water – the only thing on our minds as we re-embarked the Paul Gauguin. The afternoon was about being in the pool and drinking plenty of bottled water! It made for the ideal location for the Deck Party and sunset sail away along the coast of Fatu Hiva. Caution though, the loud horn blasts of the ship as it sails away (or occasionally says hello to the next village) is deafening and oftentimes occurred at an unexpected moment. We suspect the Captain had cameras to watch the passengers startle and spill drinks as he blared the horn; Maritime laws.
We joined Les Gauguines in Pareo tying (beautiful swimsuit wraps). Even Andrew had an opportunity to learn. Some options for the men were cape-like and others demonstrated how to skimpily cover only the man bits (the banana and walnuts). Apparently Andrew looked too good in only a bit of fabric, but a few of the men kept threatening to throw him overboard for making them look bad. It seems the daily 6 AM workouts were paying off for Andrew’s physique, but not for the loyalty of new friends. We reciprocated with an offer to provide a bed sheet instead of the small pareo to help them get the job done!
April 21, 2016 – Hiva Oa, Marquesas Islands
What an incredible way to wake up… a new island every morning, each with their own unique beauty. We found La Veranda’s veranda overlooking the islands to be the best place for breakfast after a morning run. If you’re looking for a new workout, try running on the treadmill as the ship rocks side to side – it gives incline and decline opportunities without the touch a button!
In Hiva Oa, a complimentary shuttle moved us from pier to village (we bypassed Paul Gauguin’s burial site at the cemetery, but it was an option). Andrew had already sighted his destination for the day – the beach and tidal pools complete with blow hole. It was only a few minutes walk from the village to the water. After crossing the stream emptying into the ocean and trekking across what looked like a coconut graveyard, the tidal pools revealed a baby moray eel (says Andrew), mudskippers (the fish that fill their gills with water to have an oxygen reserve and spend 90% of their time on land), and beautiful fish. As the tide started to come in and threatened to flood our path, we quickly hurried back toward the beach and returned to the Artisan (market) at the village. It was beautifully set up, but the merchandise was feeling redundant (wood carvings, tapas, pareos, and pearls) and less attractive compared to the previous islands, so we decided to take the shuttle back to the pier and refuel by the pool.
At the meeting point for the shuttle, we realized everyone seemed to have the same idea and the shuttles were running infrequently as the island shuts down for 2 hours around noon. Since we were “younger” than most, we decided to walk the 3km, at the hottest time of day with the sun directly overhead, back to the pier and leave the shuttle for those more in need of the seats. Nearly an hour later, we made it to the pier drenched in sweat and desperate for more water. Apparently you cannot bring enough bottled water from the ship to the islands. That or just wait for the air conditioned shuttle and not hike midday along an unshaded road in a tropical climate.
After cooling off and refuelling, we enjoyed an incredible local dance Te Pua O Feani by performers from Hiva Oa. The most incredible part was the 2 local little boys trying to befriend the only little boy Philip on the ship. It was heartwarming to see them holding hands for pictures. We couldn’t help ourselves – we snuck in for pictures too!
April 22, 2016 – Tahuata, Marquesas Islands
Tahuata, a Marquesas Island with similar wild untamed beauty like Fatu Hiva, but an unexpected bonus – the people! We fell in love with Tahuata for the people. When disembarking the tender, we were welcomed with customary song and dance (women and girls) and haka (men). We proceeded toward the village only 5 minutes from the pier to be entertained for 30 minutes with song and dance by some of the women from the village. It was hard to focus on the dancing at times, as this adorable little girl had found a pair of men’s sandals to parade around in after refusing to participate in the dancing.
The water was enticing, since it was another HOT day. The beach was less sand and more smooth rocks, but we couldn’t resist – we waded into the water, walking atop the soft algae growing on the rocks to watch the fish swimming in the surf.
Aside from the nature, unless you opted to rent a vehicle or be chauffeured the one hour drive by car ($150 USD) to the next village across questionable and steep terrain, there was almost nothing to do. We tried to follow a path along the shoreline – saw 8 adorable piglets – but the path quickly ended and we turned back toward the pier for the tender back to the ship.
As we neared the pier, the tender was pulling away, leaving us to wait another 30 minutes. The sun was unrelenting and our eyes were again on the water. We watched 3 children playing in the water near the boat launch. It looked so refreshing. So… we did the only thing that we could do in the situation – Jump In! Well… more like slide down the boat launch into the clear waters as the children encouraged us (in French we didn’t really understand) and pointed to the least slippery spots on the slope. Before we knew it we heard “regarde moi” from every angle as more and more children stripped down to underwear and jumped in to show off their swimming abilities.
It was so special to be embraced so quickly. Even the local women starting jumping in to cool off. Smiles really are universal! It was an unforgettable moment. We were so busy living in the moment we forgot to take pictures, but a few of the girls later wanted to take their pictures with us. The children loved taking pictures of themselves and viewing the images.
We returned to the ship just long enough for lunch and to exchange USD to XPF, then returned to Tahuata to give chocolates to all the children and attempt to help Jenn purchase bone carved necklaces. Just as Fakarava (and Moorea) are best for pearls, Fatu Hiva best for Tapa and Pareo, this island (Tahuata) is the best for bone and wood carvings. They are intricate and unique! Negotiating went well in broken French and Jenn purchased 2 tiki necklaces for 6000 XPF (instead of 5000 XPF each).
We will never forget this island… exquisite beauty and people!
April 23, 2016 Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands
Nuku Hiva is the largest of Marquesas Islands with roughly 2500 inhabitants (compared to Tahuata’s 200). It was this island that was featured in the 4th season of Survivor – a locale in the Southwest of the island only accessible by boat or horse.
The weather had shifted and poured rain throughout the night as we approached Nuku Hiva. We awoke to find the anchored ship surrounded by brown murky water and island sky clouded dark and grey. Learning from repeat passengers on the ship, we planned to hire a car to tour the island and hoped the weather would cooperate. In the village Taiohae, we hired a taxi driver from the tourist office for 5000XPF per person roundtrip to see 2 other villages, since the rental vehicles had been exhausted by a booked excursion. It was an opportunity to embrace the French language as Therese (our driver) spoke only a little English. We learned about the flowers and fruits of the islands (sometimes in French and sometimes in Tahitian) and laughed at Jenn’s attempt to say Grapefruit in french – pomplemousse was pronounced pop-the-moose; clearly influenced by both Jenn’s inability to speak French and the Canadian Moose? It became an ongoing source of amusement throughout the cruise to have Jenn pronounce words in French.
As we drove across the islands, the scenery, even on a gloomy day, was unmistakably gorgeous with black sand beaches and roads that were in impeccable condition… until we reached and had to drive over the flooded bridges. To Therese it was a “free carwash”, to us it was an obstacle that became a cross your fingers and hope we don’t get swept away in the current experience. Thankfully all taxis in Nuku Hiva must be newly purchased and 4×4, making driving around trees, wild horses, pigs, and roosters; and over coconut debris mostly effortless instead of treacherous.
While driving back toward Taiohae for the tender, Therese shared the costs of amenities on the island. For example, gasoline 1300XPF/L, rice 100XPF, beer 300XPF, goat 5000XPF (we are still unsure if that’s for a living goat or just a piece of goat), or building a small home 6 Million XPF after purchasing the plot of land. For reference, 100XPF = about 1USD. The villages each have an Artisan (market) offering souvenirs similar in type and price to the other French Polynesian islands.
The only downfall to the day, the no-no! These are tiny mosquitoes and they loved us. We made the mistake of stopping at one of the many archeological sites this island is known for, which gave the tiny bad no-nos the opportunity to attack. Krissy counted at least 20 bites from the short encounter and that was after bug repellent had been applied. With the Marquesas being home to several mosquito born illnesses, avoid the no-no and their itchy bites at all costs! We would recommend skipping the archeological sites on gloomy wet days.
Overall, 3 villages and 4.5 hours of guided tour for $150 USD for 3 people seemed incredibly worthwhile. Gutaew (thank you) Therese! We hope to see Atuona (white sand beach) the next time we visit.
April 24, 2016 – At Sea 3 – En Route to Huahine, Society Islands
A leisurely day at sea: sleep in, workout, eat breakfast, relax, and participate in some onboard activities. The cooking demo by Chef Stefan in the Grand Salon (theater) was fantastic, especially since there were samples of the boursin cheese filled portobello mushrooms. After indulging in seconds (and maybe thirds) of the samples, we shifted to La Palette for Tapa painting and made drink coasters – nothing to write home about, but I guess interesting enough to blog about!?!
While Jenn sampled the spa ($110 USD for 50 minutes of exfoliation and massage treatments), we attended an interesting enrichment lecture by Dan Benedict about Polynesian astronomy and way finding. It is pretty amazing to think that these tiny islands were found in the very large Pacific Ocean by navigators using stars, wave movements, cloud patterns, bird species, and even debris to find their way. Imagine being able to recognize being near land based on the feel of a wave against the side of your canoe or after observing a particular bird species.
After a late dinner at L’Etoile, we watched Krew Kapers starring the crew members of the Paul Gauguin and this was arguably the best performance of the cruise. We liked it better than Que Bola? Magic and the Cruise Director’s singing – sorry Steve.
Feeling energized after the excitement of the show, we agreed to go to La Palette disco for dancing and drinks. We hoped that our friends and the crew would all be partying late into the night at La Palette. The reality – a very sad state of affairs; 4 people, easy listening music, an empty dance floor, and confirmation that the crew were tucked away on the forbidden crew deck (Deck 2) having their own exclusive party.
So, what would 5 young adults looking for fun on a cruise ship with rumours of a secret party hosted by a famous DJ from the Philippines do? Down a few Tequila and Lemon drop shots and convince themselves they were invited to the exclusive crew party and sneak down to forbidden territory – Deck 2. Oh yes, it happened… it just didn’t happen like you might expect. The elevator to deck 2 led to a laundry mat, but the loud dance music nearby revealed the smoky sweaty crew party… only the reception was less than positive as the record player needle scratched bringing the music to a halt and the shocked looks of the crew indicated the invite was revoked leading to a rapid retreat. La Palette would have to do and with some coaxing the DJ changed the music to something more recognizable. Talk of the young people sneaking to the Crew Deck would be rumoured for the remainder of the cruise… and Rex – the security guard – would mention to the young people that the video cameras may have captured the incident. Lucky for us Rex has a soft spot for the ladies… and believed our promise never to return to Deck 2.
April 25, 2016 – At Sea 4 – En Route to Huahine, Society Islands
Another beautiful sailing day en route to the Society Islands. Everyone was top side for the morning coconut bar on the pool deck with liquor being free poured to create coconut cocktails. Size does matter when it comes to Paul Gauguin coconut cocktails… at least it seemed that way as everyone struggled to carry and sip from the biggest coconuts we’ve ever seen.
Since everyone was congregated near the pool, it was perfect timing for the launch of the ship building competition with pool substituting for ocean. Multiple entries emerged; all assembled from items found on the ship. Our favourite – a floating half full champagne glass complete with straw flag! We aren’t sure which ship won because we slipped into La Palette to make Polynesian feather hair picks. Les Gauguines were impressed by Andrew’s effort and Jenn’s… well her attempts came together eventually.
So arts and crafts may not be Jenn’s forte, but being lucky sure seems to be! That evening, while relaxing in the provided bathrobe with towel wrapped hair, Jenn realized she was about to miss the draw for a black pearl pendant at the Pearl Shop. So… up she ran in the elegant robe and towel ensemble and sure enough – Winner! Jenn won the hibiscus pearl pendant and returned to the stateroom to reveal her new favourite possession. It was admired that evening at dinner and at the show Maeva Polynesia featuring Tahitian song and dance.
April 26, 2016 – Huahine, Society Islands
As we neared the Leeward (Society) Islands overnight, the clocks were adjusted back by 30 minutes. By 8am we had arrived at Huahine, situated 175km northwest of Tahiti, comprised of 2 mountainous ranges: Huahine Iti (small) and Huahine Nui (large), and populated by 6000 people living among 8 villages with Fare being the main village. Huahine would become our favourite island of the cruise… a surprise as we had anticipated Bora Bora to be the best.
It was a postcard perfect day in Huahine! We started with a 4×4 Ecotour of Huahine Iti to a vanilla plantation, resort for drinks and snorkel, mangrove estuary, and a marae (ceremonial temple) by the beach. The 4 hour tour was perfectly balanced and our guide Manava was impressively knowledgeable. At the vanilla plantation, we learned about the process and 3 year time commitment involved before the vanilla can generate money. Huahine vanilla incorporates 6 species of vanilla plants and is ranked just under Madagascar vanilla in flavour and demand. It was interesting to see the island’s vegetation and use of land for agriculture with an abundance of bananas, pineapple, noni (antioxidant fruit highly sought after in the United States), taro, sweet potato, and many more fruits and vegetables. At the marae, we learned that while human sacrifice was historically common, the people were never cannibalistic. It was about killing people, not eating people, for religious and ritualistic reasons. Huahine is rich in archeological sites, with the village of Maeva having 30 restored maraes.
Feeling inspired to explore more of Huahine, we climbed aboard the complimentary shuttle from the pier and drove along the coastal road north to Fare (the most populated village). We had read about the sacred 3-6 foot long blue eyed eels, but with rental cars unavailable and last shuttle back to the pier about to arrive, it seemed impossible to get to Faie to see them. That is until Tapu, one of the male Le Gauguin from the cruise ship, did something unexpected. Since Tapu is native to Huahine, he had his sister pick us up and take us to Faie’s river where Tapu showed us the harmless blue eyed eels that we fed “sacred” mackerel from a tin and touched their slimy bodies. Tapu’s sister had us back to the pier just in time to catch the last tender to the ship…
It was an afternoon of laughter as we drank Chi Chi’s and shared stories with friends in the pool. The “green flash” phenomenon eluded us again at sunset, though others claimed to have seen it today. After dinner, we gazed at stars under the clear sky as we entered the only passage (Te Ava Nui) to Bora Bora. Then, while anchored in the bay it was a night of karaoke at La Palette! Andrew sang A-Ha’s ‘Take on Me’ and impressed the crowd and the ladies participated in a group song of something better forgotten.
April 27, 2016 – Bora Bora, Society Islands
Yes – Bora Bora baby! The island that inspired our cruise. An island we longed to see after watching the movie Couples Retreat. Bora Bora, an island first discovered by Captain James Cook, is the eroded cone of a volcano set in a wide barrier reef. It has millions of years to go before the centre will disappear into the ocean and the island will transition to only a ring of coral motus/islets constituting an atoll (like Fakarava – Tuamotu Islands).
The excursion we booked was the Lagoon Cruise with Polynesian Feast ($199USD per person). It was worth every penny! The outrigger boats transferred us from pier to open ocean where everyone climbed into the 30-40 feet deep water with dozens of black tipped sharks and several large lemon sharks. Krissy hesitated near the ladder, seeming to prefer the safety of the boat. As Krissy entered the water she observed a large lemon shark swimming directly in her direction from below. She clutched the ladder more tightly; the shark changed direction. Eventually Krissy was convinced to release her grasp of the ladder for a snorkel in crystal clear waters with the habitually circling black tipped sharks. After surviving the sharks, the boats returned to the lagoon for stingray viewing. This water was 3-4 feet deep with stingrays curious and swimming close to participants. We found ourselves more fascinated by the circling black tipped sharks. It was unreal to be so calm in shark infested water; an incredible experience. Another impressive aspect of the excursion – snorkelling in the coral garden – the clearest most fish abundant snorkel site we have ever seen!
We would have stayed all day… but stomachs were getting hungry and bladders nearly bursting from 3.5 hours on the water without a toilet, so the outrigger boats took us around the lagoon past the overwater bungalows of several resorts to a private motu for a traditional feast. Everything was cooked in an underground oven unveiled in front of us. Eating gluten free was no problem – the lobster and vegetables had spectacular taste! Andrew was able to enjoy the pork and fish too.
After lunch, back to the outrigger boat to travel the remainder of the lagoon circuit to the pier with a twist – the captain decided he would rather play the ukulele than drive the boat, leaving an empty seat that Andrew filled. Andrew, who does not have his boating license, became the captain for the 10+ people in the boat. Everyone was warned about Andrew’s lack of experience, nobody seemed to mind. It went exceptionally well… until Andrew took a large wake at full speed… the boat lifted out of the water, then crashed back down sending a woman, who opted to stand, onto her bottom. Oops… no injuries… and we all survived!
As we returned to the ship we knew we wanted to visit the Paul Gauguin private motu! We grabbed the last tender to the motu, a white sand beach that advertised open bar, shaded palm trees, volleyball, snorkelling, and water sports. By the time we arrived, we were left with palm trees and snorkelling – the bar had been drank dry and the paddle boards and kayaks returned to the ship. Duly noted, do not wait to take the later tenders to the motu! We made lemonade out of lemons and snorkelled the afternoon away.
As it turns out, it is Bora Bora’s lagoon that holds the most interest and beauty. Staying on the water was the perfect decision for today, especially since the clouds hung over the Otemenu Mountain making land exploration less appealing.
An exhaustingly delightful day… a Gravol nightcap helped us drift asleep as the ship sailed through rougher waters.
April 28, 2016 – Taha’a, Society Islands
Taha’a is a small island known as the vanilla island and enclosed within the same barrier reef as Raiatea. Only by booked excursion can Taha’a be accessed from the ship, so nearly everyone else is encouraged to enjoy the day on the Paul Gauguin private islet Mahana. We had read impressive reviews about the private motu and took the first tender over with snorkel gear and towels! We kayaked around the shallow lagoon, then treaded over rocks trying to get into the deeper water near the north reef to snorkel and eventually drift back toward the beach with the strong current. This was the only island that reef shoes would have been advantageous, but it was worth the small cuts on our feet to see the variety of fish, sea urchins, anemones, and crustaceans.
The weather was rapidly shifting and heavy rain impending, so we returned to the ship for lunch – only room service was available since most of the crew was on the motu serving the BBQ buffet lunch. We managed to find room for a 3 course room service lunch, then thinking the rain had stopped we took the last tender back to the motu to find Jenn and friends. We should have learned our lesson from Bora Bora about taking the later tenders. The vendors selling vanilla had packed up and left and the motu was abandoned. At first it seemed romantic to have the islet almost entirely to ourselves; everyone must have taken the tender that passed us back to the ship. We strolled along the beach holding hands and curiously looking into huge hermit crab holes as we discussed slipping away around the bend for more privacy… but any such thoughts came to an abrupt halt as we were beckoned back to the tender to evacuate the islet. Just as the tender reached the ship, lightning struck down from the dark clouds and blinding rain re-commenced. A sigh of relief, we were safe on the ship…
April 29, 2016 – Moorea, Society Islands
Moorea – a hidden gem according to many repeat visitors – was hidden behind dense fog and cloud when we awoke with only hints of the shoreline visible. We had booked the Dolphin Expedition excursion with marine biologist Michael Poole – a rain or shine event. Although the weather wasn’t perfect, the rain remained distant and the Spinner dolphins (with 4 calves) appeared only minutes from the bay meaning hours of dizzying circles around the dolphins in nearly the same location. The downfall to the excursion was two-fold: Michael Poole, initially presents as arrogant and pretentious (he lightened up eventually); and the dolphins being so close to the bay negated the need for us to cruise around the island to look for other dolphin species or seeing more of the coastline. It is respectful that proceeds are being utilized for research! And fun facts: 1. Dolphins have sex a lot, with all sexes and ages of dolphins of the same species and with any body part that will fit into the slit. Sexual activity is the glue that holds dolphin pods together, at least for a day! 2. Dolphins are identifiable by their dorsal fins, specifically the shark bites on the dorsal fins. For instance, “Bullet” had a circular bite mark and “Deep V” – yes you probably guessed it – a deep ‘V’ bite mark. Dolphins, while trying to escape, rotate their spine (dorsal fin) toward an attacking shark to protect their abdomens and vital organs. Dolphins that survive have lasting and identifiable bite marks on their dorsal fins.
After returning to the pier, we walked through the nearby market as we awaited the tender back to the ship. It was here in Moorea that we met Nathalie and fell in love with her unique pearl creations. This was what we had been waiting for, a truly one of a kind grade A (the best grade) pearl necklace. Several pearls secured on silk thread with mother of pearl shell. If we had found the same necklace in 1 of the 6 French Polynesian galleries Nathalie distributes to, it would have cost a fortune. Lucky for us, the pier location sells for nearly cost …and we learned how to differentiate between real and fake pearls. Want to know? If you don’t have an X-ray available to see the nucleus (center) and the minimum 8mm required thickness of a pearl, then take a lighter to the side of the pearl or scratch the pearl against your tooth – a real pearl will be undamaged; a fake will be singed or scratched.
Tonight, after docking in Papeete, Tahiti, we enjoyed dinner beneath the stars at Le Grill with some of our favourite cruise friends on the last night of the cruise. It was a perfectly executed meal that included gluten free shrimp, Polynesian steak, and Tahitian vanilla creme brûlée!
April 30, 2016 – Papeete, Society Islands – Disembark
By 10 AM, we disembarked, after adjusting a slight discrepancy in our stateroom charges. Thank you Vacations to Go (our booking agency) for honouring the contracted $1400 credit and to Paul Gauguin’s customer service team for their support. We split a taxi with new friends John and Cindy to the airport to pick up our Avis rental car, then returned to the pier to pick up Jenn, Tapu, and our luggage to head to Le Meridien resort. Andrew and Tapu enjoyed the luxury of the front seats while the ladies were squished into the back seat buried beneath all the luggage (it was a compact car).
Le Meridien, which is not directly affiliated with Paul Gauguin like The Intercontinental, was an excellent choice for resort. The grounds were beautiful, spacious rooms well-maintained, and the customer service and management team worked hard to take care of us. The Junior Suite offered 2 balconies, one of which was nearly as large as the room with views overlooking the pool and ocean. Every detail was well thought out as even the TV welcomed Mr. Andrew Court across the screen and cookies and toiletries were left complimentarily.
After a luxurious afternoon poolside, we returned Tapu to the ship after tearful goodbyes to our new French Polynesian friend and then headed back to Le Meridien for drinks with many of the same friends from the Paul Gauguin cruise before our reserved dinner in Papeete at Villa Thai. Villa Thai is understated on the exterior, but bright and welcoming inside. Removal of footwear is required and seating is on cushions near the floor with sunken tables and low hanging lights. The food was delicious, but did take some time to be served (almost an hour). We raced Jenn to the airport within an hour of her international flight… she made it! We didn’t want to have to say goodbye, after all “…we are the three best friends that anybody could have…” (quoted from the Hangover movie)
May 1, 2016 – Tahiti, French Polynesia
Just the two of us today as Jenn had landed safely in Toronto. Le Nemo, the well-priced restaurant near Le Meridien was closed (Sunday), so we opted for vanilla yogurt and milk to pour over gluten free Cheerios for breakfast.
We still had the rental car and most of the day before our flight would depart for Auckland, New Zealand, so we drove along the west coast of Tahiti stopping at the Maraa Grottos to see Paroa gotta, the largest underwater aquatic cave in Tahiti. It was a beautiful short stroll through gardens and completely complimentary. We travelled further to Tahiti’s Peninsula and took the road as far as it would go to Teahupoo, the site of mythical waves and the annual Billabong Pro surfing competition. The waves today were almost non-existent, the perfect size for beginners and children to practice and play.
We departed Papeete May 1st at 5:50 PM on Air New Zealand and would arrive in Auckland, New Zealand May 2nd at 9:15 PM (12 hours ahead of Toronto) after crossing the International Date Line.
